A 7-day circuit from Marina Portorosa covers five to six islands comfortably — the full archipelago if the wind cooperates. The route below is the one most experienced sailors follow: north to Stromboli first (the most remote), then working back south and west through Panarea, Salina, and Filicudi, before returning via Vulcano and Lipari. Stromboli is done on Day 1 because it requires the longest passage and the best weather — arrive early in the week when conditions are typically most settled. This itinerary covers approximately 96–100 nautical miles total.
Flexibility note: Wind conditions in the Aeolians can change the plan. Always have a fallback anchorage identified before every passage. The order below can be reversed or rearranged — the most important principle is to match each night’s anchorage to the forecast wind direction. See the Wind Direction & Anchorage Guide for the complete lee-side table.
Route Overview
| Day | Passage | Distance | Overnight |
| 1 | Portorosa → Stromboli | ~50 nm | Scari buoy field / Ficogrande |
| 2 | Stromboli → Panarea | ~14 nm | San Pietro buoys |
| 3 | Panarea → Salina | ~12 nm | Santa Marina Salina |
| 4 | Salina → Filicudi | ~15 nm | Pecorini a Mare / Filicudi Porto |
| 5 | Filicudi → Vulcano | ~22 nm | Porto di Levante / Porto di Ponente |
| 6 | Vulcano → Lipari | ~3 nm | Porto Pignataro / Marina Lunga |
| 7 | Lipari → Portorosa | ~22 nm | — return to base |
⛵ Day 1 — Portorosa → Stromboli (~50 nm)
Depart: No later than 06:00. This is the longest passage of the week — 7–8 hours in typical summer conditions. The outbound leg from Portorosa heads NW, which is directly into the typical Maestrale. An early departure builds buffer time before the afternoon wind builds.
Arrival: Anchor at Scari approximately 400m south of the town, in 6–12m on black volcanic dust — good grip. Pick up a buoy from the field north of the jetty (VHF Ch 16/77, tel. 090.986390) if available. The buoy field is easier than anchoring in the volatile conditions around the island.
Afternoon: As soon as you’re settled — book your crater hike guide at the Scari waterfront. Daily visitor numbers are limited; guides fill up quickly in season. Excursions depart late afternoon to arrive at the crater for dark. The round trip is approximately 5 hours.
Night: After the crater hike, motor around to the NW side of the island. Stop engines off the Sciara del Fuoco and watch the lava rolls in silence. The sounds — the deep rumble of the eruption, the hiss of hot rock hitting the sea — are what makes this different from any photograph. Your boat may be lightly dusted with volcanic ash by morning. It rinses off completely.
⚠ No sheltered harbour: All Stromboli anchorages are open roadsteads. If the forecast deteriorates overnight, you must be prepared to leave. Have Panarea (14 nm SW) as your fallback. Underwater cables on the charts — keep clear. → Full Stromboli guide
⛵ Day 2 — Stromboli → Panarea (~14 nm)
Depart: Morning. Circle Strombolicchio — the solitary rock stack 1 nm NE of Scari — as you leave. 14 nm SW, roughly 2 hours.
Arrival: San Pietro (Scalo Ditella) on the east side. Two organised buoy fields N and S of the pier — arrive before 10:00 in peak season. If buoys are full, anchor in 5–12m on sand north of the pier, holding well clear of the ferry turning area (500m minimum).
Morning: Dinghy ashore to Cala Junco — the finest cove in Panarea, 30 minutes on foot from the port. Red volcanic rock walls enclosing turquoise water. Go early before the excursion boats arrive from Lipari. Note: Cala Junco is closed to all vessels 1 June–30 September (marine reserve regulation) — confirm current status. Immediately above Cala Junco: the Bronze Age village of Capo Milazzese (1400 BC, 23 oval huts, extraordinary clifftop views).
Afternoon: Dinghy to the islets — Bottaro and Lisca Bianca (5–13m, sand bottom). The underwater fumarole field between the two islets produces bubbles rising through crystal water. Outstanding snorkelling.
Sunset: The terrace at Hotel Raya — one of the most famous sunset aperitivo spots in Italy. The combination of dancing under the stars with Stromboli glowing on the northern horizon is unique to Panarea.
⚠ Panarea underwater platform: The entire island sits on a broad submerged shelf with shoals and rocks extending in all directions. Chartplotter at maximum zoom when approaching any cove. Formiche Rocks (east approach) — multiple ancient wrecks. → Full Panarea guide
⛵ Day 3 — Panarea → Salina (~12 nm)
Depart: Morning. Optional short stop at Cala Junco anchorage if coming from the north (in Maestrale, sheltered). 12 nm WSW, about 2 hours.
Arrival: Santa Marina Salina — VHF Ch 16 or 11 to Porto delle Eolie before entering. Moor in the marina or anchor outside in 8–12m, clear of hydrofoil lanes. This is the best-equipped harbour in the archipelago after Lipari — fuel, water, provisioning.
Afternoon: Rent a scooter (electric available) at Santa Marina. Ride to Malfa on the north coast for a Malvasia wine tasting at Fenech Winery (informal, walk-in). Continue to the Pollara belvedere — the collapsed volcanic crater that became the backdrop for Il Postino. Best at sunset: the cliffs turn red and gold.
Evening: Motor Pollara anchorage (if settled) or return to Santa Marina for the night. Granita at Da Alfredo in Lingua — mulberry or almond, with warm brioche — is obligatory before bed.
⚠ Pollara entrance: Enter from NW only, between Punta Perciato and Scoglio Faraglione. Wind shifts and surge possible. Not recommended for overnight for larger boats in uncertain conditions. → Full Salina guide
⛵ Day 4 — Salina → Filicudi (~15 nm)
Depart: Morning. 15 nm W, about 2.5 hours. As you approach Filicudi from the east, the western tip of the island reveals La Canna — the 70m basalt sea stack — and beyond it the Grotta del Bue Marino.
Arrival: Anchor at Pecorini a Mare (S coast) on mooring buoys, or at Filicudi Porto (E coast). Pecorini a Mare is the finest anchorage — black pebble beach, colourful fishing boats, complete quiet.
Afternoon coastal circuit by dinghy: Motor to the western tip — Grotta del Bue Marino (largest sea cave in the Aeolians; 30m wide; crystalline light), Scoglio della Fortuna (natural pool), La Canna (approach close, the legend says touching it grants wishes). Allow 2–3 hours for the circuit in calm conditions.
Ashore: Walk to the Bronze Age village of Capo Graziano — 1800 BC, 27 huts on a promontory above Filicudi Porto. Free and unguided. The underwater site at Capo Graziano (9 Greek and Roman shipwrecks) is diveable with an authorised centre.
Night: The darkest sky in the Aeolians. No light pollution. The Milky Way visible with the naked eye. Stromboli glows on the eastern horizon.
⚠ No ATMs, no fuel, no provisions: Bring everything from Salina. One small restaurant at the port — closes mid-September. → Full Filicudi guide
⛵ Day 5 — Filicudi → Vulcano (~22 nm)
Depart: Morning. 22 nm ESE, about 3.5 hours — a downwind passage in typical summer Maestrale. One of the most enjoyable legs of the week.
Arrival: Choose anchorage based on wind direction. Porto di Levante (N coast, 38°24.928’N / 14°57.783’E) for W/NW winds — the standard stop. Porto di Ponente (W coast, 38°25.12’N / 14°57.14’E) for E/NE winds. Depths 3–10m on mud, good holding.
Afternoon: Gran Cratere della Fossa hike — 391m summit, 7 km round trip, 3 hours. Start in the late afternoon for the best light at the fumarole zone (sulfur-yellow rocks, steam, views of all 7 islands). Laghetto di Fanghi mud baths — right off the ferry dock, between the yellow rock mounds. 28°C year-round. 10–15 minutes maximum. Verify open before visiting (closures occur during elevated gas emissions).
Evening: Walk between Porto di Levante and Porto di Ponente via the village of Piano — the only inland village on Vulcano. Spiaggia Sabbie Nere (black sand, west side) for the sunset.
⚠ Ferry wash: Porto di Levante has constant hydrofoil and ferry traffic. Rig extra fenders. Tying to the tourist pier is forbidden. Anchoring within 50m of beach is prohibited. → Full Vulcano guide
⛵ Day 6 — Vulcano → Lipari (~3 nm)
Depart: Late morning — only 3 nm north, 30–45 minutes. Fuel at Eolian Bunker pier before departing. Top up water tanks — both should be filled here for the return passage tomorrow.
Arrival: Porto Pignataro — call VHF Ch 09 before entering. 1 nm north of Marina Lunga, inside breakwater, better shelter, less ferry wash. If full, Marina Lunga has space but expect ferry wash throughout the day.
Afternoon: Museo Archeologico Eoliano — inside the 16th-century citadel. One of the finest archaeological museums in southern Italy: obsidian from 4000 BC, Bronze Age artefacts, Greek amphorae, and the largest collection of ancient theatrical masks in the world. Entry ~€6. Allow 2 hours.
Evening: Walk the old town — the narrow lanes around the citadel, the evening passeggiata along Marina Corta. Pizzeria Pescecane for dinner — SeaTV’s recommended pizza on the island. Bar Alfredo (near Marina Lunga) or Subba (near Marina Corta) for granita — almond flavour is the best in the Aeolians.
Optional day add-on: If time permits, take the bus to Belvedere di Quattrocchi (10 min from Marina Lunga) for the classic Lipari panorama — faraglioni stacks with Vulcano directly south.
Provision fully tonight — Lipari is the last reliable shop before Portorosa. Supermarkets on the main street. Local Malvasia wine, capers, sun-dried tomatoes. → Full Lipari guide
⛵ Day 7 — Lipari → Portorosa (~22 nm)
Depart: No rush — 22 nm SE with the typical Maestrale behind you. This is a downwind leg; the return is usually faster and more comfortable than the outbound Day 1 passage. Allow 3–4 hours.
Optional stop en route: Anchor briefly at Porto di Ponente, Vulcano for a final swim in the Aeolians if conditions are good — 3 nm south of Lipari, then continue to Portorosa from there.
Arrival Portorosa: Fuel at the marina quay. Complete boat check-out. The volcanic dust on the decks rinses off completely without marks.
Practical Notes
| Topic | Notes |
| Provisioning | Portorosa before departure + Lipari (Day 6) are the only fully reliable stops. Salina has basic shops. |
| Fuel | Portorosa (departure) + Eolian Bunker at Vulcano/Lipari (Day 5–6). Fill both times. |
| Buoys | Most anchorages have seasonal buoy fields. Arrive before 10:00 in July–August. ~€30–50/night typical. |
| Stromboli guide | Book on arrival — do not assume availability. Daily visitor limit enforced. Crater may be closed if activity is high. |
| Cala Junco (Panarea) | Closed to all vessels 1 June–30 September. Verify current status before anchoring. |
| Vulcano mud baths | Temporary closures possible due to gas emissions. Verify locally on arrival. |
| Torch | Essential for going ashore at night on Stromboli and Filicudi — no street lighting on either island. |
Sailor’s tip: The order of this itinerary — Stromboli first, Lipari last — is deliberate. Day 1 gets the longest and most weather-dependent passage done when you are fresh and the week is most likely to be settled. Day 6 at Lipari ensures you have provisioned, fuelled, and rested before the return leg. Never leave Stromboli for the end of the week when a deteriorating forecast could force you to skip it.
All SeaTV Island Guides
- Portorosa Marina — Charter base. 700 berths, Blue Flag. Provisioning tips.
- Stromboli — No sheltered harbour. Sciara del Fuoco night lava. Crater hike rules.
- Panarea — Cala Junco, Bronze Age village, Raya terrace, underwater fumaroles.
- Salina — Pollara, Malvasia, Da Alfredo granita. Best provisioning after Lipari.
- Filicudi — Grotta del Bue Marino, La Canna, Capo Graziano Bronze Age site.
- Vulcano — Gran Cratere, mud baths, black sand. Porto di Levante vs Ponente.
- Lipari — Museo Eoliano, Spiaggia Bianca, provisioning hub, best granita.
- Porto Pignataro — Best-sheltered marina on Lipari. VHF Ch 09.
- Wind Direction & Anchorage Guide — Which anchorage for every wind direction, all 7 islands.
