SeaTV · Thailand · Eastern Gulf · Trat Province
Eastern Gulf · Trat Province — Everything a Sailor Should Know Before Cruising the Koh Chang Archipelago
The complete location guide · how to get there (airports, ferries, transfers) · when to come (seasons, weather, holidays) · what to see (the beaches you don’t skip · the temples worth the dinghy trip · the elephant sanctuaries · the working fishing villages) · what to eat · what to budget · cultural essentials · health & safety · how the cluster fits together. For the day-by-day sailing itinerary, see the Eastern Gulf 7-day Route page.
Photos & coordinates: see the interactive map below · 7 docking pages linked at the bottom
Trat Province sits in the SE corner of Thailand, sharing a border with Cambodia · 310 km from Bangkok, 800+ km from Phuket, and almost completely off the international cruising circuit. The province is named after its mainland capital — Trat town — but the magic happens offshore: a string of 12+ islands spread across Mu Ko Chang National Park, declared a national park in 1982, with the marine sub-park around Koh Rang protected as a no-fishing sanctuary for 40+ years. Koh Chang is Thailand’s second-largest island after Phuket, but with a fraction of the development. Koh Mak is family-owned, descended from royal-era Chinese-affairs officers. Koh Rang is the snorkelling capital. Koh Kut is the southernmost frontier — the convergence of Khmer and Thai cultures, with royal-visit history dating to 1911. This page covers everything you need to know before you arrive — for the docking and route detail, see the linked pages at the bottom.
️ Interactive Map — Eastern Gulf Anchorages
→ Full interactive map of the SeaTV Eastern Gulf anchorages · use the layer toggles to filter by category · pinch to zoom on mobile · charts 120 (Koh Chang) + 151 (S to Koh Kut)
⚓ Eastern Gulf at a Glance
Region
Trat Province · SE Thailand · Cambodia border
Distance from Bangkok
~310 km (~5hr by car · 1hr flight to Trat Airport)
Islands
12+ (Koh Chang + Koh Mak + Koh Kut + Koh Rang + outer islets)
Park
Mu Ko Chang National Park · 1982
Best season
Nov-Apr (NE monsoon)
Currency
Thai Baht (฿) only
Languages
Thai · English at resorts · less in fishing villages
Time zone
ICT (GMT+7) · no DST
✈️ How to Get There — Airports, Ferries, Transfers
There are two practical routes from international destinations to the Eastern Gulf — both via Bangkok. The cluster has its own airport (Trat) but with limited connections; most travellers fly into Bangkok and continue from there.
Option 1 · Fly to Trat Airport (TDX)
Trat Airport (TDX) is operated by Bangkok Airways with daily flights from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi (BKK). Flight time ~1 hour. Airport is ~40 km from the ferry pier at Centerpoint or ~20 km from Laem Sok Pier.
→ Bangkok Airways is the only operator into Trat (PG flight code).
→ Typically 2-3 daily flights · book via bangkokair.com.
→ Pre-arranged taxi from airport to ferry pier · ~30-45 min.
→ Best for: short charter trips · those flying internationally into BKK and continuing same day.
Option 2 · Drive from Bangkok
Private transfer or rental car from Bangkok · ~5 hours via Highway 3 (Sukhumvit Road) or via the new motorway. Most charter operators arrange airport pickup at BKK or Don Mueang and drive directly to the ferry pier.
→ Bangkok → Trat: ~310 km · 5-6 hours including stops.
→ Public bus: Ekkamai Bus Terminal (Bangkok) to Trat town · 6 hours · cheapest option.
→ Mini-van services: faster than bus · multiple daily departures.
→ Best for: arriving with luggage · families · groups of 4+ where private transfer cost is shared.
Then — the ferry from mainland to islands
From the mainland (Laem Sok or Centerpoint piers near Trat town), you take a ferry to your destination island.
→ To Koh Chang: Centerpoint Pier or Ao Thammachat · car ferry takes ~30-45 min · runs every 30 min · 06:00-19:00.
→ To Koh Mak: Laem Sok Pier · speedboat 45-60 min · runs 09:00-15:00 (varies by season).
→ To Koh Kut: Laem Sok Pier · speedboat 1-1.5 hours · 09:00-13:30.
→ Direct island-hopping: Bang Bao Boats and other speedboat services run daily inter-island routes (Koh Chang ↔ Koh Mak ↔ Koh Kut).
→ ⚠ Last ferry typically 19:00 · arrive at the pier with margin · book ahead in high season.
If you’re chartering with Island Spirit:
→ The charter base is at Salak Phet on the south of Koh Chang.
→ Phil & Kim arrange airport-to-base transfers · contact them directly: Phil +66 81 813 8023 · Kim +66 93 131 0844.
→ Most clients fly Bangkok → Trat (TDX) and get picked up at the airport.
When to Come — Seasons, Holidays, Festivals
High season · Nov-Feb
Peak charter window. NE monsoon at full strength (25-30 knots peak Nov-mid Jan), settled weather, dry days, water clear, all anchorages workable. Resort prices up 30-50%. Book charter 4-6 months ahead. February is the sweet spot — winds slightly easier, water still clear, no rain.
Holiday surcharge: Christmas/New Year is a major Thai domestic holiday — boats and resorts heavily booked, rates spike, expect crowds at popular anchorages.
Shoulder · Mar-Apr
Inter-monsoon transition. Winds light, temps higher (35°C+), occasional thunderstorms. Charter operations continuing. Songkran (Thai New Year) mid-April — water festival across the country, big celebration in Trat town, expect to get soaked even in the islands. Prices drop 20-30%.
Songkran 2026: April 13-15. Plan around it — fun if you want to be in it, harder for transfers and provisioning.
Off-season · May-Oct
⚠ DO NOT charter. SW monsoon · heavy rain, rough seas, charter operations typically pause. Some land-based tourism continues but the islands are largely closed for visitors. Wettest months: August-September.
If you want to visit Trat for non-sailing activities (mainland temples, food culture, Cambodia border), Apr-May is more comfortable than Aug-Sep.
Other notable dates:
→ Loy Krathong (Nov full moon): floating-light festival on water · happens during sailing season · evening anchorages near villages will have local celebrations · respectful joining welcome.
→ Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb): big in Koh Mak (the family clans descended from Chinese-affairs officers celebrate) · plan for some shops/restaurants closed 2-3 days.
→ Trat Province founding day (mid-Mar): mainland celebrations · doesn’t impact charter operations.
→ King’s Birthday (Dec 5): national holiday · resorts may have special offers · some shops closed.
The Beaches You Don’t Skip
Of the dozens of beaches in the cluster, these are the ones that matter — for the sand, the water, the access, or the experience. Some are accessible by yacht only · others by road from the mainland · some require a dinghy through a river. Listed by island.
Koh Chang
→ Whitesands Beach (Hat Sai Khao): the longest, busiest stretch · best provisioning + sunset · A9 anchorage.
→ Kai Bae Beach: Sigal’s favourite for sunsets on the W coast · A7 anchorage · Meechai elephant camp ashore (decide for yourself · the elephants are kept on chains).
→ Lonely Beach: backpacker stretch · fire shows · loud music until 7-8 AM · A6 anchorage.
→ Long Beach (Hat Yao) at Tree House Resort: on the SE coast · the quiet alternative · A2 anchorage · ⚠ 800m of shallows, 10m anchor minimum.
Koh Mak & Koh Kham
→ ⭐ Koh Kham: Sigal’s favourite of the cluster · A14 anchorage · 200฿ fee · sand bar appears at low tide · short snorkel from beach.
→ Ao Kao (SE Koh Mak): long quiet bay · A16 anchorage · the local beach for the family clans.
→ Ao Phra: primary NE-protected anchorage · A17 · cleanest swimming on Koh Mak.
→ Cococape Beach (N Koh Mak): beach bar with a sunset view · A15 anchorage · adjacent to Seavana Resort (best food on the island).
Koh Kut
→ ⭐ Captain Hook’s Bay (Ao Check Ki): #1 favourite of the entire cluster · A28 · coconut-tree-lined white sand · ⚠ approach S of Ko Raet ONLY (sand bar in N channel).
→ Ao Bang Bao (Koh Kut, NOT Koh Chang’s Bang Bao): sheltered hideaway · A30 · The Beach Nature Resort ashore.
→ Hat Thakian (North & South): long white beaches · A31a + A31b · less developed than the bays further south.
→ Ao Phrao: the river-trip bay · A31c · the National Geographic-like estuary trip up to the working temple.
Attractions & Experiences Beyond the Beaches
Waterfalls
→ Klong Phlu Waterfall (Koh Chang): dinghy from A8 Chai Chet up the river · 600-700m walk through jungle · 200฿ adult / 100฿ child · pool with fish that nibble your toes · best Nov-Jan.
→ Klong Chao Waterfall (Koh Kut): from A29 anchorage · dinghy up the estuary, walk ~15-20 min · Tarzan rope, fish that nibble (don’t bite), pools below.
→ Kai Yee Waterfall (Koh Kut): 20-min walk from Bann Makok Resort up the river from A28 Captain Hook’s · ask if it’s flowing first.
→ Klong Nung & Than Mayom (Koh Chang): on the E side · accessible by road from Salak Phet for those wanting a half-day land trip.
Temples & Cultural Sites
→ Working temple at the end of Ao Phrao river (Koh Kut): reached by dinghy from A31c · ⚠ covered shoulders + knees required · genuine working monastery, not a tourist site.
→ A34 Ao Salat (Pirate Bay) temple: golden Buddha + a preserved monk · serviced by paved road · most accessible of the temples.
→ King Rama V plantation house (A26 Ko Maisi Lek): dilapidated but still standing · mosaic floors from the Chinese-affairs era · caretakers usually OK with a respectful look.
→ Wat Salak Phet (Salak Phet village): the main temple of the SE coast · short walk from the charter base · ask the rangers about timings.
Snorkelling & Diving
→ ⭐ Koh Rang Marine Park (the cluster highlight): A20 mooring buoys · ⚠ A21 + A23 pinnacle rocks (dinghy/SUP only) · 40+ years no-fishing protection · biggest fish in the cluster.
→ Hin Rap Rock dive site: off Ko Khlum · ⚠ rock awash that has sunk boats · advanced divers only · best for fish life.
→ Ko Raet (off A28 Captain Hook’s): SE side has sunken temple statues near the mooring ball · accessible by snorkel from the dinghy.
→ BB Divers (Bang Bao + Koh Kut): reliable PADI dive operator · multi-day trips to Koh Rang.
Wildlife & Nature
→ Mu Ko Chang National Park rainforest interior: 85% of Koh Chang is protected rainforest · accessible jungle trails from Salak Phet, Klong Phlu, and the Park HQ · closed shoes recommended.
→ Fireflies at Bann Makok (Koh Kut): evenings on the river upstream from A28 · well-coordinated blinking display · best after dark, calm water.
→ Mangrove kayaking (Salak Khok village, E Koh Chang): long-tail boat or kayak through the mangroves · half-day trip from Salak Phet area.
→ Meechai Elephant Camp (A7 Kai Bae): baby elephants accessible · ⚠ the elephants are kept on chains here · some visitors find this distressing · decide for yourself.
→ Sea turtles: occasionally seen around Ko Bai Tang (“Turtle Island”, A12) and Koh Rang waters · no guarantee.
Working fishing villages — go ashore properly
→ A32 Ao Yai (Koh Kut): stilt-village over the water · Noochy Seafood for dinner · ⚠ NOT bikini ashore · cover up.
→ A34 Ao Salat (Pirate Bay): historic pirate cove · serviced by road · most tourist-friendly of the fishing villages.
→ Salak Phet village (E Koh Chang): the working community next to the charter base · seafood restaurants · slow Thai pace.
What to Eat — Trat Cuisine, Seafood, Don’t-Miss Dishes
Trat Province has a regional cuisine distinct from Bangkok or Phuket — strong influences from Cambodia (Khmer flavours), generous use of seafood, fewer chillies than southern Thai, lots of coconut and sour notes. The cluster’s seafood comes off boats hours before it hits your plate.
Local specialties to try:
→ Pla Krabok Tom Yam: sea-bass in clear sour soup · the signature Trat dish.
→ Crab in yellow curry (Pu Phad Pong Karee): blue swimmer crab from local boats · the cluster’s most-asked-for dish.
→ Hoy Khrang Phad: stir-fried baby clams · cheap, fresh, ubiquitous.
→ Khanom Chin Nam Yaa Pu: rice noodles with crab curry sauce · breakfast staple.
→ Squid · grilled or stir-fried with garlic: the boats come back every morning · ask what was caught.
→ Tropical fruit: rambutan, mangosteen, durian (May-Jul), longan, dragonfruit · cheaper than anywhere else in Thailand.
Best meal stops in the cluster:
→ Seavana Resort (N Koh Mak): best food on Koh Mak · book in advance.
→ Captain Hook’s Resort (A28 Koh Kut): Lychee Rose cocktail · sprawling sunset terrace · arrive by dinghy through the river.
→ Noochy Seafood (A32 Ao Yai): pier village · fresh-caught seafood · rustic.
→ German Bakery (A19 Ao Ta Nit): proper bread · pastries · the only authentic European bakery on Koh Mak.
→ Bann Makok Resort (Koh Kut): tranquil river-side restaurant · fruit shakes · evening firefly view.
→ Soneva Kiri (A27 Koh Kut): 6-star restaurants · MUST call ahead.
Budget & Costs
A budget guide in Thai Baht (฿) · approximate · 2026 prices:
→ Local meal at a Thai restaurant: 80-150฿/person.
→ Mid-range resort dinner: 400-800฿/person.
→ Captain Hook’s / Bann Makok / Cococape sunset: 600-1,200฿/person with drinks.
→ Soneva Kiri dinner: 3,000-8,000฿/person (call ahead).
→ Big Chang local beer (640ml): 80-120฿ at restaurants · 60-80฿ at shops.
→ Cocktail at a beach bar: 180-280฿.
→ Taxi from Whitesands to Big C: 100-150฿ each way.
→ Park entry fees: 200฿/person + 100฿/hull (Koh Rang) · 200฿/person (Koh Kham) · 100฿/person (Koh Rayang Nok) · 200฿/adult (Klong Phlu Waterfall).
→ Massage: 250-450฿ for Thai massage · resorts higher.
→ Bag of ice from a resort: 50-100฿.
Health, Safety & Practical
Hospitals:
→ Bangkok Koh Chang Hospital (Pearl Beach near A9 · W coast): +66 39 532 735 · 24hr · government, English-speaking, very affordable.
→ Koh Chang International Hospital (Dan Mai · E side): 1719.
→ Koh Kut hospital (small clinic): the only ATM on the island is here · minor injuries only · serious cases evacuate to Koh Chang or Trat.
→ Trat Hospital (mainland): full-service · for serious cases · ferry evacuation.
Vaccinations: Hepatitis A + Tetanus recommended. Japanese Encephalitis worth considering for long stays. Malaria is NOT endemic in the cluster but mosquito-borne dengue is — use repellent.
Drinking water: bottled water only · resort taps OK for showering / brushing teeth.
Sun protection: equatorial sun · UV index 11+ · reef-safe sunscreen mandatory in Koh Rang Marine Park · long-sleeve rash guard for snorkelling.
Marine hazards: jellyfish (rare but possible Mar-Apr) · sea urchins (rocky shores · wear water shoes) · stonefish (very rare, sandy shallows · shuffle, don’t step) · coral cuts (always disinfect).
SIM card / data: AIS, True, dtac all have coverage across the cluster · 4G reliable on all islands · 5G in Whitesands area only · buy SIM at airport or on arrival in Trat town.
Cash machines: plentiful at A9 Whitesands · scattered on Koh Mak · ⚠ only 1 ATM on Koh Kut (at the hospital, topped up weekly · bring cash before going).
Tipping: not strictly expected but appreciated · 10% at restaurants if service was good · 50-100฿ for hotel staff helping with bags · charter crew tip ~10% of charter fee at end.
A Brief History
The Eastern Gulf was at the edge of empires for centuries. The Khmer Empire reached this coast at its peak (9th-13th c.); afterwards, the area was disputed between Siam and Cambodia for hundreds of years. Trat was occupied by France during the colonial period (1904-1907), part of the broader Franco-Siamese tensions over the Mekong region · returned to Siam in 1907 in exchange for territory in modern-day Cambodia.
Royal connections run deep: King Rama V (Chulalongkorn, 1868-1910) appointed Chinese-affairs officers to administer Koh Mak — the descendants of those officers still own most of the island today, organised into five family clans. King Rama VI (Vajiravudh) visited Koh Kut in 1911 and named one of its waterfalls “Anamkok” after a Vietnamese king who had taken refuge in Siam under Rama I in the late 18th century. The mosaic-floored plantation house at A26 (Ko Maisi Lek) dates to this Rama V era and is still standing.
Mu Ko Chang National Park was declared in 1982 · marine sub-park around Koh Rang protected from fishing since the same year. The 40+ years of protection are visible underwater — the pinnacle rocks (A21, A23) hold pelagic species rare elsewhere in the Gulf of Thailand. Koh Chang is Thailand’s second-largest island after Phuket, but with a fraction of the development; 85% of its rainforest interior is preserved within the park.
⛵ The Sailing Cluster — 7 Pages
Each page below is the full sailor’s guide to its sub-area · anchorages, depths, hazards, ashore tips, dinghy access, food, provisioning. For the day-by-day itinerary, see the Route page.
1 · Charter Base
2 · Salak Phet & Koh Chang East
3 · Outer Islands & Koh Wai
4 · Koh Mak & Koh Kham
5 · Koh Kut · Captain Hook’s & the 9 Anchorages
6 · Koh Rang Marine Park
7 · Koh Chang West Coast
Day-by-day itinerary
Eastern Gulf · 7-day Sailing Route (Day-by-Day) — the recommended itinerary, day-by-day, anchorage-by-anchorage.
Continue Exploring
→ Thailand main hub — overview of all Thai sailing clusters
→ Andaman Coast · West / Phuket Region — the other side of Thailand (Phuket, Phang Nga, Krabi, Koh Lanta, Phi Phi)
→ SeaTV main — all sailing destinations worldwide
“The Eastern Gulf is what Thailand sailing was twenty years ago and it is still here · Trat Province in the southeastern corner where the country touches Cambodia and where the islands have not been built into the international circuit · fly Bangkok to Trat one hour Bangkok Airways or drive five hours from Bangkok and ferry across · best November through April peak February before the tourists figure it out · the four main islands each with their own character · Koh Chang second largest in Thailand with the rainforest interior and the eastern coast that shelters the charter base and the western coast that supplies the provisions and the hospital · Koh Mak the family island with the five clans descended from King Rama V’s Chinese affairs officers and Sigal’s favourite at A14 Koh Kham · Koh Rang the marine sanctuary where forty years of no fishing means the snorkelling is the richest in the cluster · Koh Kut the southernmost frontier with Captain Hook’s Bay and Klong Chao waterfall and Ao Phrao river trip · twelve plus islands · forty seven anchorages · seven docking pages · one seven day route · the cluster you choose when you have already done Phuket and want quieter.”
— SeaTV · Eastern Gulf · Trat Province · The Complete Location Guide